Delhi welcomes you with open arms

Back by popular demand

I'm writing, I don't know what I'll write, I'll just start and see if the words find their places. 

I left Britain a few days ago to travel to Japan, on the way I had a long layover in Delhi, India. I didn't especially want to stop in Delhi, as much as I've longed to see India, a 24hr layover didn't seem the best way to do it, the flight was the only one I could afford though and I figured I'd arrive in the evening, go straight to my hotel and then spend the day seeing Delhi before departing for Tokyo that evening. So I thought. There were several hitches before I'd set off. I couldn't prearrange an airport transfer so I would have to take a taxi, at night, that's a big stepping stone for me. Secondly the visa to enter India costs £60, that's okay, but it did mean that the flight wasn't as reasonable as it seemed at first glance. Thirdly you can't get Rupees in britain, the lady at the bureau de change told me, I still assume that's true. 

Before I tell you about the experience, I need to make it clear I am stating the facts and describing the situation. Yes, it sucked, yes, I was disappointed, scared, tired, frustrated, angry, but that's not why I'm telling you, I am not telling you  because I feel hard done by, I'm telling you because you asked and I'm just being honest about the journey so far. 

The flight was fine, I couldn't sleep but that's usual, although they did black out the cabin and switch off the lights which is a little unusual for a daytime flight. The food was amazing, I'm not generally a fan of meals on planes and used to habitually turn them down before I discovered the 'asian vegetarian' option, and no one does asian vegetarian like India. It was some of the best food I've ever eaten, which says a lot. 

Cutting to the chase the problems started after customs, the bureau de change wouldn't let me change any less than £150 which I couldn't afford, they directed me outside to the ATMs, what I didn't know was that the ATM was going to reject my card as nationwide suspected fraudulent activity. Okay, my bad, should have told them but it didn't even cross my mind. However, they didn't contact me for verification, they contacted mum but then wouldn't speak to her. After many failed attempts to withdraw from the ATMs, I figured I'd go back inside and sort something out, it was 29 degrees outside, very busy and nearing midnight at this point. 

Only once you've left the airport that's it, you're not allowed back in, them's the rules. The military on the door didn't want to hear me out but eventually said I could go in if I left all my luggage with them and went straight to the ATM (there was no help desk or anything).

After another 20 mins of failed withdrawals and running from ATM to ATM I finally managed to get onto the airport wifi which I used to call home. Mum informed me that nationwide had blocked my card. I rang their international number but  my credit ran out before I could even speak to someone. Next mum tried but they wouldn't discuss it with her, then they tried to phone me (to no avail). At last a solution presented itself when I facetime called mum and she put me on loudspeaker to talk to Nationwide on the home phone. Bloody hell, just thinking about it makes me nauseous. There's no way I could have contacted them without help, they'd blocked access to my one source of money and then made amending the situation myself impossible by making the international number charged at standard network rates for international calls. I couldn't have topped up and rang, they'd blocked my card. Anyway, you get the picture. Just moments after I'd successfully taken money out the military guard found me and demanded I leave the terminal, it was dead lucky he hadn't come for me 5 minutes earlier. I took a taxi (who charged me 2000 rupees for a 5 minute ride and then asked for a tip, I was too tired to argue the ethics of this) and arrived at my hotel in a very intimidating area. 

I went to sleep around 3am and got up at 11 the next morning. There was no way I felt capable of exploring Delhi whilst scared, over tired and in 36 degree heat with 3 weeks worth of luggage on my back. It was a shame, but I know I couldn't have done it. The hotel transferred me to the airport (300 rupees...) and I was relieved to be back safe and sound, only I wasn't allowed in. Of course, eventually I got in, made my flight and am now in Tokyo about to sleep for the first time in 2 days, but there was an entire day of being sent from one place to another, having my passport checked just to use the loos, being told to collect a new boarding pass, being told I couldn't have a new boarding pass, queuing for things only to be sent to the wrong places and having to start again. Surprisingly I took this whole charade in my stride, it was all just a chance to learn, even if it was ridiculous and upsetting, but my patience broke when the woman at the help desk in departures told me that on my way back I would have to clear immigration, collect my luggage, leave the airport and then check back in and clear immigration again because (and I quote) "you cannot stay in the airport, you must leave the airport mam, there is no transit area, you must collect your bags and leave the airport". I had already asked several people at different desks and been given different answers ranging from 'your bags will go straight to your final destination' to 'you may need to collect your bags and check them in again, it depends on the ticket type' but this woman didn't even bother to fob me off sensibly, we were standing IN the transit area less than 50m from the transit hotel in the airport that she works at every day that had thousands of passengers in transit every day and she just reached into her bum, had a bit of a rummage and game me whatever nonsense made up on the spot answer she found first. Bloody hell! I walked down the departures hall only to be accosted by a member of the transit hotel staff who wanted to know if I was on a long layover and would I like  sleep. I asked her if people were allowed to stay in the airport and she said "yes mam, you have to stay in the airport because you have no visa" which although presumptuous, was almost definitely closer to the truth than the answer the woman at the information desk came up with. I could have spat fire and rained down glass, god I was angry, I almost booked another flight there and then just to avoid Delhi on the way back. But I didn't, I sat calmly, got on my flight and left. 

This is part one of two I guess. I'm in Japan now, that's another story. 

I don't hate India, I hate that such a brilliantly cultural and enterprising country only showed me it's bad points. I hate that I can't help but feel angry, I can't help but be disappointed, I'm angry because I was so ready to love India and it took that away from me. I think that means I will have to go back. 

I learnt a lot of lessons, both about India and about my own strength, I'm glad every awful thing unfolded as it did. I feel really lucky. I can still be angry, I can feel both.